In addition to the undoubted merits of the Turin Winter Olympics of 2006, both from a sporting viewpoint and for putting Piedmont on the world map, there is also that of persuading marquise Anna Doria to open up to guests a significant portion of her magnificent historical estate, II Torrione, at Pinerolo, a village close to Turin.
The villa, built on top of the medieval structures of military origin and, in subsequent phases, turned into a sumptuous aristocratic residence, is situated in 20 hectares of parkland and cultivated land that is part of the same property. The gardens had already been open to the public for some time, thanks in part to the organisation of Grandi Giardini Italiani, whose aim is to make residences endowed with parkland and gardens of considerable botanical and architectural value known to the general public.
Since February of this year marquise Anna has opened up rooms, halls, courtyards and gardens to anyone wishing to stay at the Torrione. It was an interesting first few weeks. It seems that the very first foreign guests, once the winter Olympics were over, stayed there for a long time, in no hurry to go home. For them, as for those who will come, the opportunity has proved to be unique, living the "vie de chateau"in the Piedmont countryside.
It is a magical place, where everything -furnishings, architecture, gardens, even attitudes and the pace of life - energetically highlights the history of the place. History that is not fossilised but lived, and Anna Doria Lampa is a willing witness, narrating the family's fortunes, its characters and protagonists and making them come alive, as if admirals, politicians, aristocrats, cavalry officers can magically jump out of a painting, a stable or a padded drawing room. The lady of the house has a slender, wiry figure, a kind expression and above all contagious energy. She lives in close contact with guests, in the central body of the villa, where she sometimes opens up the large windows to enable guests to admire the landscape of the park and surrounding countryside, with the mountains in the background, prepares a cup of tea at five o'clock or has a long conversation when she has a few minutes free.
The marquise follows first hand a demanding activity, chicken and pig farming. "We can't deny anyone an omelette or a plate of ham and melon", she says ironically. It is she that suggests and recommends to guests places and things going on locally, even though "not always very successfully", she smiles, "because when people come here they are loath to leave".
We can easily believe her, and our chat is a slow and peaceful affair, given the climate of absolute calm as one strolls about in the garden, around the swimming pool or next to the tennis court beneath the century-old trees, providing shade for a small flock of Texel sheep, a typical English breed. And one section of the vast complex is British in flavour, a house of red brick inserted in the pale yellow of the main neo-classical structure" It was a brain-wave of a Doria ancestor, who had a passion for English things", our host explains."She spoke and wrote in English even to members of her family, and couldn't resist building a British corner all for herself". The 20 hectares of historical parkland is also in English style, designed by landscape architect Xavier Kurten, born in Cologne in the late 18th century and a great botanical expert as well as hydraulic engineer.
Kurten stayed for 28 years in Piedmont and designed numerous gardens for both aristocratic families and the House of Savoy, including the park of Racconigi Castle. Kurten's original design for the garden, dated 1835, can be seen in one of the villa's rooms. It was an ambitious project as the intention, a success, was to stir emotions with a succession of changing natural scenes. No fixed schemes or symmetries, rather a freestyle art garden, in which the masterpieces are smalllakes, clearings, rare plants and trees arranged to exploit the quality and majesty of the existing landscape.
There is also an interesting architectural detail that is rare for Italy, a Ha Ha,as it is ailed, placed in the outermost corner of the park. In practice this is a boundary area enclosed not by walls but by a wide ditch covered with vegetation, invisible to the eye until one moves right up close. The system, typical of old country residences in Britain, gives the idea of "non-finished” and thus of the infinite, and allows one's gaze to flow into the surrounding countryside. From the heart of the Torrione one's gaze can wander in every direction, towards the plain whose horizon is laced with the hills of Langhe and Monferrato, towards the belfries and towers of lovely villages such as Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and towards Alpine peaks that are not far away.
The Olympic pistes are less than 50 km away, so anyone who loves winter sports and fails to take advantage of this place will be committing an unforgivable sin. All around there is a lot to do and see, from art and sport to wines and gastronomy, historical traditions the legendary Cavalry School of Pinerolo for instance - and religious culture, with the sacre and abbeys scattered all over the territory. But as Anna Doria said, in the end one chooses to stay "at home", to go for a stroll around the park, among the yoke-elms and American oaks, rare black walnut trees and incense-producing citron trees, along clearings where squirrels abound or around the small lake that is the home of passing aquatic birds.
The estate is just outside Pinerolo, from which it is separated by high walls and barriers of fields, where animal feed crops are grown. Guests on the other hand are fed by the villa's staff, with "Olympic" breakfasts in terms of both quality and quantity, making lunch almost superfluous. For those who can't resist, Anna Doria has a list of small trattorie where Piedmont cuisine rules supreme.
The noble house and park have belonged to the current dynasty since 1856, when Leone Doria Lamba,of an illustrious family from Genoa, came onto the scene. Oberto Doria Lamba,who inherited the property and was the husband of Anna Doria, had a magnificent stable of thoroughbreds, and the house was frequented by the bel mondo of Turin, by famous jockeys and trainers and foreign owners of great racehorses. It was a preferred meeting place for top society, not only for the beauty of the place but also for the natural gift of hospitality possessed by the Doria family. This gift has remained intact with the passing of time, events and people.
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